P0740 Honda Acura FIX – Odyssey Accord Solved Fixed – Dont Rebuild Your Transmission – 28250-P6H-024

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Odyssey, Accord, Ridgeline, Honda, Acura P0740 FIX! Don’t rebuild your transmission. This problem caused a jolt of the transmission and a chirping of the tires when it would happen. It would have a violent shift from first to second and second to third. It is all due to a bad Linear Solenoid Assembly Honda Part number 28250-P6H-024.

Buy it from the Honda Dealership if you can but there are other places that sell it, Amazon.com and junkyards. I picked up the one I got from the junk yard.

RELATED VIDEOS FOR P0740 Honda Acura:

PLEASE READ | PLEASE READ | PLEASE READ

—WARNING: JUST BECAUSE IT CLICKS WHEN 12DC VOLTS ARE APPLIED, LIKE SO MANY TESTS HERE ON YOUTUBE SHOW, DOES NOT MEAN THE SOLENOID IS GOOD! :WARNING—

Here is the link for Removal & Replace (R&R):

PLEASE READ REVIEWS, AMAZON.COM Link: Also call local junkyards:

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47 COMMENTS

  1. Hey Bundy, love the videos! You mentioned in one of your replies here that replacing the solenoids doesn't always fix the problem and it potentially could be bad transmission grounds; could you elaborate more on this or point out where the correct grounds are located please?

  2. Great vid, I will keep this in mind as I have a 07 odyssey and 19 Ridgeline

    For a P0744 code , TCC solenoid Intermittent. This was on a 2001 maxima 203k miles see below story

    It ended up being dirty fluid, car had over heated few years ago but hadn’t change ATF fluid after that. The ATF has a heater/cooler loop they radiator.
    So the overheating shorten the fluid life and burned it

    What looks like fixed the transmission for me
    1) drain ATF
    2) fill with 1 bottle
    Of Lucus , and remainder valvoline synthetic ATF (it was compatible with Nissan Madic-j)
    3) clear the code
    4) code came back after 70 miles
    Continue to drive because it did drive a lot better
    After 300 miles it was about 70% better
    After 600 miles is was getting a lot better. After 900 miles almost back to normal, I double check the fluid again. It was a little high so I pumped out about 1/2 a qt. And the car was driving almost back to normal. The shift from 1->2 was a little high rpm but much better. Also manually cleared code
    It hasn’t come back and it has been a week now.

    Think I am going to drain and fill the atf again in a few months to get out more of the old fluid. Only about 1 gal comes out , the other 1gal is in the I Torque converter,

    Never do a ATF flush. Only drain and fill.

    Some transmission are sealed so either pump it out with transfer pump or drop pan.

    The maxima is actually my son’s car now. And they my own work basically saved apx 2,400 in repair costs including other stuff
    – plugs
    – coil
    – speed sensor
    – break switch
    -transmission issue

    Now this weekend he is getting taught to change oil and reseal tail lights

    Tail lights are leaking water into trunk.

  3. Old unit read 5.6ohm
    New unit read 5.ohm. didn't even install it. It was a 70$ dollar cheapo one. So likely explains why

  4. i problem is i bought new one and it got worse and i have 1998 honda accord lx 3.0 can u help me

    so i put old one back

  5. So will my fathers 2003 Honda Odyssey failed inspection for a P0740 code. The read out said, indicates a fault in the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid electrical circuit for a predetermined period of time. Will the linear solenoid fix this?

  6. So you didnt say anything about the little filters that look like bullet casings that sit right under the solenoid cover.. those plug up with shavings and cause the issues you were having even if the solenoid still clicked and functions. they should be pulled out and the screens cleaned with brake cleaner..

  7. I did this but, the same code P0740 Odyssey 03 all gears shift fine just the TCS light comes on with check engine light with that code. What cannot be? Maybe a faulty part? Let me know asap thanks.

  8. Want to share this story of code P0740 on a 04 Honda pilot. I had this code for about month so I changed tranny fluid x3 didn't change anything. After few weeks car started slipping intermittently so figured by researching this code And having 208000 on it I parked it and went and bought 2011 Pilot well after few weeks tranny started acting up in it but it also had battery light so I replaced alternator. Decided to check 04 alternator and it was testing ok but figured has lots miles on it changed it anyways. This fixed it drove it hard over and over couldn't get code to come back and hasn't slipped once. Alternator tested good but musta been bad diode or something. I really thought tranny was bad by the way it was acting. Would of scrapped this car if I hadn't of had newer Pilot

  9. My ody 2000 with 200+ kmiles (no ECL, no codes) was shifting hard from 1st to 2nd, and recently from 2 nd to 3D too. It would also rev up (to 4K rpm) when going uphill especially in low gear. Watched your video, bought aftermarket solenoid from eBay and replaced it after cleaning the screens. The shifting has improved (I can hear a small clunk, but no shudder). Surprisingly now my ECL has come on with a P0740 code!
    Any thoughts/ solutions? Thank you all.

  10. I had the notorious D4 blinking light changed out the linear solenoid and it still won’t go forward or reverse when it does it’s very delayed it full of fresh fluid when it decides to reverse it goes well then back to the delay again also the forward movement is only a few feet then it stops I’ve also changed the 2 in an d output shaft sensors D4 light is solid now no more flashing but still it won’t reverse or go forward normally the car is a 2000 Honda Accord EX V6 with the infamous automatic transmission any help would be greatly appreciated thanks !!!

  11. If have problems passing emissions, connect scanners before test 20 minutes,erase codes run vehicle until scanners passing most of the green lights,right away stopping into emissions place,disconnect scanner it will pass through test for sure,that's what I did.

  12. Having same problem. Have over 15 grand in it. Took it out and cleaned it. Seeing now there is another solenoid but where is it ? I have researched to see diagram and is it under wheel well? This part was a lil dirty but I cleaned it up and it acturally would hit reverse no problem and still hard shift. So not drivable . Put some good gas in it .. drove around parking lot even when transmission fluid got hot but didn’t last long. After research there is another solenoid screen ? Where ?

  13. I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey EX-L with P0980 and P0974 codes on it. I changed shift solenoid A and C, 3-rd and 4-th clutch pressure switch and just changed dual linear solenoid. Nothing on the dash changed. I am about to change the single linear solenoid but I feel like I am running out of ideas…

  14. Hi Bundy, several question here.

    For a regular person who does not have another Linear Solenoid as spare, how would you know the Linear Solenoid is the root cause of the issue? What methods would you use to diagnose the failures? I hear some people use multi meter to measure the ohms resistance against OEM SPEC. Is there another way you can hookup Bluetooth scan tool and look at computer readings from the scan tool? If so, what would you look for?

    I have a 245k miles 2002 Acura tl Type S with B7WA transmission rebuilt less than 1k miles ago , and recently it has hard shifting and studded sometimes. One day there were 5 consecutive hard shifts. Shortly after, CEL, VSA, triangle warning light with ! mark all turned out. P0730 code was observed through scan tool. All gears had no power and was slipping like a mad man. (I think the car was put on limp mode) When you turn the car off and back on, it will work fine and then shudder again when accelerating.

    I just spent over $2k on the rebuild and want to properly diagnose the issue before just replacing parts randomly (Especially this $300+ part). There are also numerous solenoids on the B7WA transmission.

    Since the transmission was recently rebuilt, Transmission fluid is new(I check fluid and its still bright pink with no burnt smell), ATF filters are new, friction material is new, torque converter was re manufactured. With that said, the screens for the solenoids should not be clogged or dirty.

    Also, are Linear solenoids rebuild-able to factory spec?

    Besides direct size fitment, what makes the Amazon and Ebay Solenoids an inferior product compared with OEM? Dont they use the same metal, connectors and electrical components?

    Any advise here would be helpful.

  15. Thank you very much for this very well done and thorough video. I just changed out the shift solenoid in my 2002 Honda Odyssey with 235,000 miles. Check engine light was on and I could not pass inspection. Some shops told me I should replace the transmission. So far, a week later with daily driving the check engine light has not come back on. I also replaced the A, B shift solenoid, they were $34 apiece. Below is the part numbers from Honda and part numbers from local parts stores in case it might be helpful. Thank you again.

    Honda Part#:
28250-p6h-024
    Dual linear cylinoid

    Napa
    $259.99 OEM part
    part#: 1-5631

    Advance auto pawling ny
    $306.00 plus tax
    Part#: HE-12

  16. Great video. Appreciate your dedication to finding out these 'little' solutions to what would otherwise be either a several thousand dollar problem, or require getting rid of the vehicle.

    Question for you…

    I was experiencing rough shifts and the infamous, yet seemingly unrelated, 'evaporating fuel line' issue a couple years ago. Eventually I was driving down the interstate and my transmission just broke, so I had it replaced. Interestingly, the transmission never slipped before the day it clunked, at which point it was barely able to drive the few miles to the repair shop. I had it repaired and it seemed much better, although not completely perfect.

    Fast forward 2 years of limited driving, so maybe 10k miles…

    I just started a new job that requires a much longer, 60 mile round-trip commute. Just recently I started experiencing rough 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd UP shifts. And as of yesterday I started getting really strong DOWN shifts when I come off the accelerator. It's basically the equivalent of coming to a near-emergency stop, nosedive and all.

    I spoke with the guy that did the previous repair, and it seems he's thinking/hoping it's this solenoid issue you've highlighted in this video.

    Couple issues though…

    First, it doesn't show a check engine light…just the SRS light that come on either yesterday or the day before. He seemed really surprised there was no CEL…he kept asking me 'are you sure?'

    Second, you seemed to imply in the video that this solenoid issue was mostly/exclusively related to the up shifts, not down shifts.

    I'll be taking it in for him to look at in a couple days, but I'd like to get a better handle on what the issue may be. The rebuilt tranny only has ~10k on it, and from what I recall they added an extra radiator/intercooler, and possibly upgraded the lines etc.

    Any initial thoughts?

  17. I just changed that on my 99 Accord coupe and the TCC solenoid also and the A and B and I'm still having those hard shifts from 1 st to 2nd. Now I know I have a broken from motor mount and I think the rear one also, I ordered four new motor mounts hopefully installing these new motor mounts that hard shifting will go away.

  18. awesome video thanks – i had this issue come up on my accord v6 today will try to get the part – is it easy to install ?

  19. Direct Fit Part from Honda

    https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~solenoid~assy~28250-p6h-024.html

  20. Thank you for the excellent quality video showing this replacement! I've just ordered the part from Amazon for $67 and will see how I do on the replacement. 🙂 I know lots of people have good luck with just removing it and cleaning it but since it's the wife's car I wanted to try to only work on it once for the fix. I'll clean up the original one and keep it as a backup.

  21. 💪 finally.. After about a year of rough shifting & delay shifting changing the solenoid fix the problem! Now she runs and shifts like a charm at 205,000

  22. Did you lose some transmission fluid when you took solenoids off? I'm not sure if I need to buy some for the refill if I'm gonna do mine.

  23. See I changed the solenoid it helps but it's a temp fix the problem happened again to me after a week (brand new part not used, new gaskets and all)

  24. The symptoms you describe are what my 4 cylinder Accord is doing, but it gave the codes P0700 and P0780. I changed the fluid and it's starting to shift better. Will be attempting to clean the filters on this solenoid to see if it stops the hard shifts.

  25. helllo bundy i have 2000 honda odyssey it does the same thing it shifts very hard on 1st to 2nd 2nd to 3rd and their is no codes on the scan tool what do you think it is. thanks.

  26. That other one doesn't fit because it's the wrong year.The older version fits these cars! It's 98-2003 CL V6 /// 2001-2002 MDX V6 /// 99-2006 TL V6 /// 98-2007 Accord V6 /// 98-2006 Odyssey V6 // 05 Pilot V6

  27. Is this the possible cause also of slight shudder at 1500 rpm to 2000rpm? My 07 accord v6 does that, especially on uphill after u slowed down n try to accelerate. My mechanic said hv my transmission checked.

  28. My is a 2000 Honda accord v6 ex 3.0 and it skips when I get it 20 miles and at 25 it works good I took it to O'Reilly auto parts to get it chick well they tell me my transmission is slipping but no code I took it home and plug it to my system and it gave me a code p0740 by watching your video I hope is the same problem good video keep up that good work

  29. There is an internal filter and you have to replace it. This is why people put in inline filter on. As that internal filter clogs up. You have to take the transmission apart.

  30. Hey there great video! Hey man I have 01 Acura tl and today while on the freeway my check engine light came on along with the TCS light, got to work opened and closed the gas cap at the end of work turned car on the check engine light was still on but TCS light was gone. Next day after work went to AutoZone got it obd2 and P0740 & P1298 came out.(print out said recommend replace transmission shift solenoid(s) & flush transmission fluid) My car doesn't hard shift or anything like that, it drives normal no jolting or slipping, It has 147k miles never done transmission flush before since I got it in 2008. On a side note while on freeway got cut off breaked and a water bottle hit the shifting stick into neutral- I didn't noticed, pressed on the gas once..twice as in trying to catch up w this mofo till I noticed, idk if this had anything to do w the codes just wanted to ask your opinion or anyone's on everything. Thanks.

  31. I see two listings for this part #. One is 28250-P6H-024 (99113) and 28250-P6H-024 (99820). Which is the correct part?

  32. How can I know that I shall replace this part ? Or the 2nd. Clutch pressure switch ??
    Really will get crazy because of my 2.3L Honda Accord LX 2000 model

  33. Before replacing with the new dual linear solenoid, I would clean the gasket filter, 3 small tubes, then check the resistance on each solenoid( around 5 ohm). Next do the solenoid test with a battery and see if it's clicking noise and verify that the piston actually move or traverse

  34. I have a 200 Acura TL that shows the same code(only that code) but the issue is that it feels like a misfire when shifting. It does not do it all the time. You think this might solve the issue?

  35. Hi Bundy Thanks for the helpful video. Hoping you might assist me with a diagnose and solution. I'm not a mechanic by trade but have become one through necessity. I have a 98 accord EX v6 sedan in excellent shape with 220,000km and cannot afford a new car. Besides I like mine. In the last 2 years have cleaned egr valve, ports, manifold, replaced rotors/brakes, rear struts and most recently I dropped the rear axle and muffler system (cat back) to repair gas tank that started leaking. Btw, I do this all on my driveway with hand tools. About 2 years ago I had original timing belt replaced and left/right drive shaft at dealer. They replaced drive shafts because of boots. Around the same time I noticed a clunky/jolt sensation when gears would shift. This has been intermittent.Sometimes it seems off to rpm's. I thought it was maybe timing belt related or possibly leak in gas tank causing wrong air mix and throwing off readings but the problem still exists. I refuse to believe I have to replace the entire transmission and I'm hoping that maybe its something else I can do before resulting to such a drastic measure. At this stage there are no codes with my basic reader and no flashing drive light. I did do a transmission flush 2 times last year and will try doing that again but thought you might have some ideas before changing tranny oil. Maybe there is a filter I can access? I find the Honda dealers completely unhelpful other than saying dump the car. That just makes me more determined. Btw, they said that about the gas tank. Job done and code gone.Sorry for the long note but don't want to miss anything. Thanks, Michael

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